In drafting my current manuscript, I made a note in the text every time I came to a spot where I needed to do some research, then I skipped it and moved on. Yesterday while I was editing I came to my characters’ first love scene, which was preceded by “[undress].”  In  romance, of course, the clothes have to come off at some point. Generally, they are either ripped off in a burst of passion, or peeled off garment by garment. I chose the latter approach for this scene, but the trouble with writing historical romance is that it takes a little effort to know exactly what those garments should be.

My book takes place in England during the Victorian era. So what were those Victorians wearing? Victorians are often portrayed as prudish, uptight, staid, and serious, covered from head to foot in elaborate clothing. Indeed, when Victoria assumed the throne in June 1837, the excesses of the Regency period had given way to a more prudish demeanor, including fashion. But never underestimate the allure of what is hidden from view, as noted in The History of Underclothes, by C. Willett and Phyllis Cunnington:

“Prudery was found to have, in itself, an erotic appeal. Effective underclothing developed into an art, serving sometimes as an accessory to nature’s gifts and sometimes as a substitute for their lack.. . . They also serve not merely to accentuate the real differences of physique between the sexes, but even to create illusory ones. For to the masculine mind, a creature so exquisitely delicate that she needs to swathe herself in such a multitude of wrappings must be of a peculiar fragility remotely unlike his own substance. How could natural curiosity resist such an enigma?”

Many, many books have been written about Victorian costume, so I am going to focus on the brief period which my characters inhabit: the 1860s.  In this period, clothing became more comfortable; ‘ease’ and ‘elegance’ were the deciding qualities in fashion. Curiously, however, it was also the decade of the crinoline. Although apparently more comfortable than the layers of petticoats that preceded it, the crinoline was, according to the Cunningtons, “that ingenious mechanism which in shape--and almost in size--resembled at first the Albert Hall and later the Great Pyramid.”

Cutaway view of a crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856. Source: Wikipedia

Crinolines during their heyday--according to one source, some measured as much as 18 feet in circumference--were more a statement of rank than anything else. A woman wearing one during this period risked sweeping expensive treasures off tables, falling ass over end down the stairs, or setting herself on fire. A woman of lesser status could not possibly wear a contraption like this one, and my heroine, a cook in a country house, is just such a person.

So what might my hero be removing from my heroine?

1. A simple dress with a high collar, or a full skirt with a separate bodice.
2. A camisole, which was worn over the corset. It was more like a fitted short sleeve shirt than the sleeveless camisole women wear today.

Corset, 1869. Source: Wikipedia.

3. A petticoat in place of a crinoline, and perhaps more than one.
4. A corset, intended to provide support, not necessarily figure enhancement.
5. Under the corset would be a chemise, a smock-like garment usually made of linen.
5. Beneath that, a pair of drawers. Drawers were knee-length, crotchless pants.  They were essential for women wearing crinolines, as they often accidentally came into view (they really did tend to fall down stairs). They were often trimmed with lace or ribbons, and/or made from brilliantly colored fabrics. 
6. Finally, cotton stockings and ankle boots made of leather.

Until next time, here are some additional resources on historical garments for women:
http://www.historyundressed.com/2011/04/guest-author-mia-marlowe-on-dressing.html
http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/viewvictunder1.html
http://www.victorianweb.org/art/costume/index.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1860s_in_fashion 
The History of Underclothes, C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington (1951, republished 1992).
The Corset and the Crinoline: An Illustrated History, W. B. Lord (1868, republished 2007).
Everyday Dress 1650-1900, Elizabeth Ewing (1984).
Costumes in Context: The Victorians, Jennifer Ruby (1987). 


Enjoy!